Lincoln "L" Technical Questions

I just purchased a 1930 Dual Cowl Sport Phaeton #63658 that needs ignition condensers and possibly Coils. Does anybody know brand and part #s that I could use at

local auto parts store? This is of course a 6 volt system. Also any tips on disassembling distributor and installing condensers?

Thank you so much,

Jim Miller

Kirkland Washington

Congratulations! You should post some photos of the car.

I believe the condensers should be attached to the outside of the distributor unless both of my Model L's were incorrect.

As far as part number, I don't know, but one time I had a coil go bad on a tour. I stopped at the first parts store I came across and asked them for a 6V coil. After the counter person continued to tell me he needed to know what it fit, I acquiesced and said it was for a 29 Lincoln. Naturally, he was stumped. So I asked him if he had a part number for a 53 Ford F100, and he did. I said, perfect! I hooked it up and went along my way, noting that I would get the proper one later. That was probably 15 years ago and I haven't done it yet. In other words, I don't think it is critical. But that's just my experience.

We are aiming to replace the condensers. We've taken out the points, and are now here... seeing that the condenser wires go down beneath this plate. The plate doesn't seem easy to remove. Does this plate lift up and come out i order to access and replace the condensers? Or is there another way to access and replace the condensers?

The original condensers were located under the plate that holds the points. You should follow the directions outlined in the service manual or service bulletins to remove the plate to get to the condensers. I'm not aware of any replacement condensers of the originals since these are trapezoidal shaped units. Most people use VW 6 volt condensers that are attached to the outside of the distributor. I just recent rebuilt my distributor and took the distributor apart and installed VW condensers under the plate similar to the original Lincoln condensers. It is a bit of work to install these but they give the distributor a much cleaner look. I did test the original condensers, they seem to be OK but replaced them since they seem to fail when they get hot.

Peder,

That's good information. Thank you!

The new condensers are much smaller than 1950s. With a little fussing, you can fir them inside the distributor, close to teach point set. Again 6V VW condenser and 6V Bosch coil work fine.

Thank you everybody for the help. Trying the exterior option tomorrow will report back

Jim M

Reporting back: condensers did work out sort of… Engine is Firing on all cylinders, running smoothly at idle, and low Speed. Generally lacks torque and power and needs timing.

More questions:

1. I really need to know where to buy a complete service manual and /or a good article on timing this engine. I have seen references to an article a few years back in Fork and blade but no way to obtain it. Same problem with service manual.

2. Also a new issue is when I turn on key starter motor begins to run even though it is not engaged to engine until I press starter pedal. Is this normal?

3.see picture of dashboard below. What does the big T shaped handle supposed to control. We have tried tracing a copper tube coming out th back but can’t figure it out.

Reporting back: condensers did work out sort of… Engine is Firing on all cylinders, running smoothly at idle, and low Speed. Generally lacks torque and power and needs timing.

More questions:

1. I really need to know where to buy a complete service manual and /or a good article on timing this engine. I have seen references to an article a few years back in Fork and blade but no way to obtain it. Same problem with service manual.

2. Also a new issue is when I turn on key starter motor begins to run even though it is not engaged to engine until I press starter pedal. Is this normal?

3.see picture of dashboard below. What does the big T shaped handle supposed to control. We have tried tracing a copper tube coming out th back but can’t figure it out.

Not sure about a complete manual, but you can purchase the service bulletin set right here on this website. See tab on left.

Yes, the starter function is normal. Somebody more knowledgeable here can explain it technically.

Both the T handle and the key in the dash are not original. It seems like it shouldn't be too hard to figure out where it goes, however. The key is supposed to be on the ignition switch on the steering column.

You should post some pics of the car.

Pursuant to popular demand, I have posted pictures and I’m sending a link with better quality pictures when the car went up on eBay. The eBay link talks about cars history as well.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1930-Lincoln-Model-L-Ex-Harrah-Car-Excellent-See-VIDEO/155461816497?pageci=b7c6c732-c618-4d05-bee7-6d6be1ed0b2f&redirect=mobile

I'm guessing the T handle is for an overdrive unit that has been added to the car. If you look under the car along the torque tube you should see a unit that has been added. This is a common alteration made to cars for better high speed driving. One manufacture that was used were Borg Warner units.

Thank so much to everybody for all the help. I am embarrassed about starter motor. Also since I last posted a new problem has arisen. When I turn the key on the motor is not turning and the starter pedal cannot function either. If give the starter a carefully Placed tap with a hammer With ignition off, I can turn the ignition back on, and the starter motor will begin turning. The Car Then starts normally with the pedal. Any ideas how I can solve this, so I no longer need to carry a hammer and giant screwdriver.?

Specifically, thanks to Jeff, Allan and Peder. Onthe starter motor problem I forgot to mention that when I turn the key on the ampmeter show a 10 amp draw so I believe the starter is trying to get going......just can't do sometimes. The problem is intermittent. Thanks again.

Jim M.

Based on your experience with intermittent starter motor starting, I suspect one or both of the overrunning clutches are sticking. The main one is between the water pump and the generator end input shaft from water pump. There is an oil cup for this, but passages may be full of crud. Getting at this clutch requires removing the water pump, which is a chore in itself. You could try adding some light machine oil to the oil cup at the front end of the starter/generator.

There is another overrunning clutch inside the cluster gear that is shifted by the starter pedal.. There is a grease fitting on the end of the cluster gear shaft, accessible by removing front floor boards. When floorboards are out, it is a good idea to put one, maybe two shot of grease in the clutch release bearing, accessible under the clutch access cover. Do NOT overgrease this bearing, excess is just thrown out by centrifugal force into the bell housing.

Another possibility solved by the hammer blow, would the starter brush lifting mechanism sticking. That linkage is all inside the rear end of the starter/generator. There is some access to these brushes through frame openings under the cover band.

The hammer fix makes me think of the sticky brush gear. The 4 starter end brushes are normally lifted off the mating commutator by a cam mechanism operated by the starter pedal. When the pedal is pushed down, the brushes are lowered into operating position on thee commutator. When the pedal is released, they are lifted by springs.

The starter and generator on all model L Lincolns is a combination unit, serving both function. The armature has two sets of windings; two commutators and sets of brushes. There is no cutout or reverse current relay.

When the ignition switch is turned on, the unit turns at low speed with no engine rotation. When the starter pedal is pressed down, two things happen: 1) a cluster gear moves into position to engage the flywheel gear teeth and the pinion gear on the motor/generator shaft. 2) the set of 4 brushes for the starter function are pressed into contact with the starting motor commutator, the engine begins to turn for starting. When the engine starts, the starter pedal must be released immediately to lift the starter brushes and to avoid back-driving the starter/generator. There is an overrunning clutch in the cluster gear, but cannot survive full engine RPM for long.

As to service manuals, LOC publishes an exact reprint of the 1926 L service manual, with detailed instructions on timing, etc. It is quite a bargain for a VERY valuable resource. The set of Service Bulletins is also of Great Value.