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Lincoln "L" Technical Questions

1923 Lincoln L
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Thanks for that. Olson's gaskets also gave me Egge's details. Have fired off emails to both of them. Will keep everyone posted on what turns up. Meantime, if there's anyone else, would appreciate their contact details.
Martin,
Members of the club that I've talked to like Arias Pistons. Egge used to be the go to, but seems to have fallen out of favor.
https://ariaspistons.com/pages/custom-pistons

Good luck with your Lincoln!

Jeff
Much belated thank you for the address. Gasket set now purchased and in Malta! Not sure if anyone knows, but the engine is being stripped, and I need to know who might have pistons for it, whether standard or oversize, and if oversize, what size.

Thanks all!
OLSON'S GASKETS
3059 Opdal Rd. E.
Port Orchard, WA 98366, USA
Phone: (360) 871-1207
Email: info@olsonsgaskets.com


Lincoln V8 1922-27 Model L head gasket, Lincoln #L8357C.
Hi there. I didn't solve the problem unfortunately, but glad that someone else did.

Unfortunately, the car is not mine and the owner is now using someone else. This someone has redone everything I've done, and has had no luck with it either. Apparently, whoever it is has said that the problem is a failing cylinder head gasket, due to water overflowing from the expansion tank and/or with the radiator cap off. This guy has apparently also said that he is certain it's a cylinder head gasket because when pressing the top hose while running, he can feel fluctuation/air bubbles in the system. Just relaying what I've been told.

Anyway, I'm now out of the equation, but, since the owner has asked, does anyone know where cylinder head gaskets can be obtained from?

Regards

Martin
Good job, glad you solved the problem
Hold the phone everyone, as I have worked through this issue and live in South Carolina, Columbia with 100degF days. I struggled with this symptom on my 29L It is NOT vapor lock, but the following:
1. Rebuild water pump and be sure no binding in waterpump/drive discs
2. Ensure good flow, clean radiator and that the radiator baffles open fully by thermostat control
3. I found that one problem was low vacuum to vacuum tank, I found that a small vacuum leak occurs with the main vacuum line from manifold to firewall. When the car rocks a bit, this tends to get loose, I made a new one with a loop out of stainless and solved problem here. This small vacuum leak will only make itself known when going up hill and under load.
4. Valves, particularly exhaust valves. What happens if the valve clearance is too tight or too loose, is that when the engine gets real warm, these clearances will change. So what appears to be vapor lock, is actually back pressure from exhaust valves not set properly. It will for all the world look like vapor lock, as when the engine cools, you are back in business. But you are looking in the wrong place. This took me a month to figure out. Solved much of the problem.
5. Next, I rebuilt the vacuum tank, using a modified flapper fitting. This is essential as if that flapper is old it will leak, particularly when pulling hard. This turned out to be one of my major problems- it drove me nuts.
6. Blew out and cleaned the entire fuel line system and checked fuel filter (original) under car at frame.
7. Rebuilt original updraft carb- optional, but be sure needle and seat and adjusting screws are properly set.
8. New exhaust manifold wraps, which you can get to look like new.
9. Use low octane, non ethanol fuel (getting easier and easier to find)

I now can run this car on the hottest of days, up and down hills, no problem.
I have the original and correct fuel line in place.
However, I did insulate the floor boards with an adhesive heat shield (you cannot see this unless you crawl under car). I will admit, the cockpit gets pretty warm when running on 90deg days, so after about an hour I head to the barn.

I would not, in any way shape or form, use an electric fuel pump if you intend to use any of the original fuel system. Moreover, as above, you will not overcome the original problem by increasing fuel pressure, but will add to significant risk. When I picked up my 29L, I had to restore the firewall as a previous owner added a 6V inline fuel pump, it caused too much fuel pressure, a leak occurred under the hood, and a fire resulted. No matter what pressure rating, this can be a very risky business.

From the symptoms I am hearing on the original thread, I think running through the checklist above would be wise, and likely to fix the problem.
We have driven our 1924 in some very warm days 90 degrees plus with out issue. Perhaps because we have the early version of the downdraft modification. I have read that installing a very small return line to the tank will sometimes solve this problem as it allows fuel to continually flow. I'd be very careful about raising fuel pressure on the chance it would push past the float valve that was designed to only handle gravity pressure. Best of Luck
I hesitate to comment because I have not been successful in solving the problem on my car. I have added electric pump and ran the rubber, aluminum covered line directly to the card, beside the motor and under the distributor into the carb, but this did not solve the problem. Right now I'm back to using the vacuum tank and the line to the carb as described. I used a low pressure pump 3-4 psi maybe a higher pressure would help. I believe the problem is in the carb, not enough flow. My car looses power and eventually dies if it has been running, (can drive forever at speed), and then I hit stop and go traffic, not using much gas, and then it dies. Do not recall a problem on hills but maybe they are not long enough were I live. Earlier I iadded nsulation between the exhaust manifolds and carb to no avail.
I did tighten the fan belt as much as I dared and that seemed to cool the engine giving me much better performance, in that I can stop and start more before she stalls out.
I must reluctantly agree with Jeff. My '29 Lincoln is still working with the vacuum tank system, but has the same issues with hot engine, then low fuel flow fuel boiling in the line and/or the carb. The cause, of course, is modern gasoline has much higher volatility the in the Old Days. I would recommend running a new fuel line from your pump to the carb,UNDER the exhaust manifolds. If you run it over the flywheel housing it is inconspicuous. Put an extension fitting or a long straight fitting in the carb inlet for the new line, so you can hold the fitting with a wrench while tightening the nut, so as not to overstress the carb fitting, and make it easier to disconnect the new line when necessary.  You can leave the old line in place for appearance, disconnected from the carb. No one can see where is went into the carb, anyway.

My 2 cents' worth...
Hi Jeff.

Thanks for the response. I will try that next, and will see what happens. Will put up a post when I do the modification, and let everyone know if it worked. Funny, I never did trust that vacuum system, although at first blush it seems to be working fine.
Martin,

Since no actual experts have answered, I will tell you that in both my '28 & 29 Lincoln's I bypassed the vacuum tank entirely when I installed electric fuel pumps and have not experienced any of the trouble you are having. You can leave it looking original, I just removed the "guts" from the tank and plumbed a line through it.

You should be able to drive it anywhere, any time of the year. Hope you get more educated answers, but good luck.
Good morning all

As an intro, my name is Martin and I'm based in Southern Europe and run a small vehicle resto/repair shop. I have a client's 1923 Lincoln with Fleetwood bodywork here, which has what seems to be the usual petrol vacuum lock/boiling issue, but unfortunately with no solution in sight.

The symptoms are as described in other threads, running ok, then, after an uphill stint, backfiring, with uneven running and loss of power and also coolant loss . After a 10-15 minute wait and coolant top up, it will start normally, run for a bit and then repeat the whole thing again after a few minutes.

I have now been through everything including -

1. re routing the fuel line into the carb.
2. Wrapping of new fuel line with aluminium foil tape.
3. Replacement of carb jet and housing (03 Carb) from Sam Howe. This was to stop the fuel flooding.
4. Wrapping of exhaust manifold with heat wrap to keep the temp down, and at least now I don't get blisters any more.
5. Overhaul of water pump. The glands were worn out and replaced.
6. Distributor checked, and condensors replaced (both were on their last legs)
7. Replacement of 1 coil due to someone installing a 12V ballast coil instead of a 6V coil. The other coil was checked, found to be ok and left alone.
8. Regapping of sparking plugs to 27 thou, manual says no less than 22 thou. I found them at 38 thou (most of them anyway).
9. Electric fuel pump already installed and functioning.
10. 10% Diesel added to the fuel.

I have tried the car in the workshop, and test driven the vehicle on the flats near my workshop, and can run the car for more than 30 minutes without any issues, but as soon as those damn hills appear, the backfiring starts again.

The car went out for a short 3 mile road run yesterday, in 32deg celsius temperatures, and it was worse than ever.

One other thing, although this might be a red herring, is that some time ago the original Stewart fuel vacuum unit was giving trouble, and was replaced with another one which was working properly.

Any other suggestions as to what to do? Carb replacement from a later model? If carb replacement, what and where from?

Although the car is 95 years old, I simply can't believe that the car can only be driven in winter, because that would be really insane!

Regards

Martin
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