Lincoln "L" Technical Questions

Thank for everyone's help, it was a really good suggestion to take the oil pan off. I found 1/4' on sludge in there. I have cleaned it all out going to give it a coat of paint before I put it back on.

I also found a date cast into the front passenger side of the block, it says 5-8-1929.

Any time, contact for me is listed in the directory.
John

Here is a picture of the car before it was painted yellow. I understand the color is heliotrope. My wife's mother is sitting it it.

Al, I had a look in the fuel tank it has 1/2 a tank of rancid old gas. I am going to get that out then flush it like you said. I found the instruction on a fuel pump with the tools under the drivers seat. Looks like the pump is a Stewart Warner 240 series, now I just need to find it.

My father in law just found a full set of the Lincoln Service Bulletins interesting to see how the car was upgraded through the years. He says he has the original owners instruction manual somewhere.

My next worry is the wiring. Do these pictures from behind the clocks look right?

John, All my old car experience has been on English 4 cylinder cars from the 50s and 60s so I have no idea what a this car sounds like, would be great to come and see yours.

You must have an electric fuel pump. That simplifies things. There probably is a fuel filter near the pump, under the car. A likely place for the pump is where the original Lincoln fuel strainer was, on the inside of the frame, under the driver's seat. There should be a filter near the carburetor. Put one in if it is not there, there is probably some crud in the fuel lines, and you do not want it going into the carb.  If the fuel pump works, pump, disconnect the tube at the carb, hook on a hose, and pump some fresh gas through the lines as a quick flush. A half gallon or so will reveal any crud , if the gas comes through clear, you are good to go. Don't forget the shutoff valve on the bulkhead, inside the car.
Yes, a lot to learn, but Lincoln are extremely well built, you are not likely to hurt anything. Get the shop manual and service bulletins from the Lincoln Owners Club. If you have the "Owners Book of Instruction" that cdame with the car, that is very helpful, as well.

Good Luck, keep us posted, please
Al Rustad

Michael, can't really add to much to the previous advise. I'm located about 100 Miles north with a 1924 L. If I can be of any assistance let me know.
John Kelso

Thank Allen, That's great info.

I am taking very slowly so not to break anything. The carb has been replaced with a downdraft Holly on a modified manifold, I think this was a common conversion. I am going to have the carb rebuilt, there are some local guys in Baltimore that can do it. there looks to be a fuel pump as the vacuum tank on the bulkhead has been bypassed (see picture).

Thee is so much to learn!

Best,
Mick

Michael,
Jeff's ideas are very good.
Be aware that to remove the carburetor for a thorough cleaning, it is necessary to remove it together with the intake+water outlet manifold. New intake manifold gaskets are available from Olson Gaskets. in Port Orchard, WA. At least, clean out the float bowl, which can be done with the carb. in place.
For a trial start, I would be sure to drain the vacuum tank (it is probably already dry from evaporation) that is the fuel pump, add fill with a half gallon or so of fresh gas. (It holds a full US gallon) Lincoln L engines do not have fuel pumps, (unless an electric one has been added) they rely on engine vacuum to keep the vacuum tank filled, and fuel then flows by gravity to the carburetor, by way of a shutoff valve on the engine room bulkhead inside the driver's compartment.. This valve must be open to allow fuel to the carb. It is a simple needle valve, turn clockwise to close, opposite way to open. If there is a small leak at the valve stem, you can tighten the big nut a bit. Do not tighten too much, or you will not be able to turn the handle. When driving, I always turn the fuel valve off when the car is parked, as if the carb. float valve does not close tightly, gas will continue to seep into the carb., eventually overflowing the float bowl and dripping into the drip tray under the carb, whence it drains to the pavement through the drain tubes. Waste of fuel and fire hazard. 
For a trial start, just put gas in the vacuum tank. Make sure these are no open vacuum leaks, like windshield wiper hose missing. Tape over the end of the hose nipple above the wiper motor if the hose is gone, the engine will start much easier with the opening sealed.. 
Starting instructions per 1928 "Owner's Book of Instruction": 1)Put gear lever in neutral; 2) Place spark lever on steering wheel hub (upper left) approximately over "DR" in "Driving Range"; 3) Pull  down the throttle lever (upper right) )from its closed position until the accelerator pedal starts to move; 4) turn ignition switch to "ON"; 5) Pull the choke button on the instrument panel all the way out. (when engine is warm, this is not necessary. 6) Push down on starter button on floor, and crank the engine for 4 to 6 compressions, continue cranking, then push the choke button in 2 or 3 clicks. (This may take some experimenting)
The engine will usually start with a little more cranking. You may find that the choke and throttle settings best for your car may be a little different.

I use Shell Rotella T 15-40 diesel engine oil in the crankcase, but would not do so on your old engine that has not been internally cleaned of accumulated carbon deposits. The detergent and dispersant additives in "modern" oils can loosen old crud in the crankshaft passages and destroy a bearing. Follow Jeff's advice and use straight SAE 30 or 40 oil.

Please pardon my rambling...
Welcome to LincolnLand !
Al Rustad

Thanks that really helps. I need to get a fan belt but unsure of the size.

I'm sure other folks here have a more thorough method, but I would just do the following:
*Drain the old gas
*Clean the carburetor
*Drain the old oil
*Refill with oil of your choice. I use 40w.
*Drain the water and refill
*Check spark plugs but they're most likely fine
*Buy a new battery
*Crank it and have fun

This is all presuming that it was running when parked, and stored in reasonable conditions.  Can't really see you breaking anything if that was the case.

Sounds like a fun deal.

Hi Everyone, my name is Mick Worthington. I've had lots of old cars before but they've all been small English 4-cylinders (I'm originally from Britain) so I am new to the world of big American cars.

My father-in-law has a 1922 Model L with a 1928 engine that has not run for at least 15 years. It has the manifold conversion so it has a later Holley carb.

We are trying to get it up and running for its one hundredth birthday. I'm looking for any advice which may help us get the engine going. I'm particularly interested in anything I should be aware of before I try cranking the engine (like anything I might break if I'm not careful!).

Thanks,
Mick