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Lincoln "L" Technical Questions

Condenser tank on older models (mine is 1925)
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Thanks Allan,

I will try your tips for the extra gaskets.
I can not make much turns with the ornament before it is tight.
so maybe that is the problem, and not the gaskets.
Have drillend the small hole again, drained the whole system, and now I am ready to start testing it stationaire again.
I am very happy I have the original Lincoln monometer on it, this will warn me at least when we are getting to hot for the engine. I understand you have a flat cap?
I will not obstruct the overflaw, that is way down deep.
I will report if the car is back on the dutch roads after some 50 years or so. Or it may never been on the road before. who knows, thanks again. Let you know when I have tested.
Martijn,
The vent hole also serves as an overflow, in case the reserve tank and the radiator are both full at a cold start. 
My car is a 1929, so radiator cap is different. The sealing surface is a flat area at the base of the threads on my radiator. There is a matching flat on the cap. I made  gaskets from a couple of rings cut from an old inner tube, stacked two in the space to get some compression when tightening the cap. Make sure not to obstruct the overflow tube.
Good luck...
Allan Rustad
wow, and more wow.
thanks a lot Allan. this was exactly the info I needed.
I was about to run the car with no vent hole in it, but when I tried this stationairy at normal startup RPM after 5 min water leaker from the radiator cap indeed!
I am positive my cap gasket is not fully airtight.
Do you have any tips on this matter? I will also ask a guy over here in the Netherlands who ownes 3 model L's
You did a very good explanation of this matter. Will you be coming to the homecoming week? we will for sure
Hope to meet you there
Will drill the hole open again, and start testing if I can get abetter seal on the cap
Remember how this system works: If the radiator is full, with engine cold, as water heats up, it expands, and excess will pass out through overflow tube into bottom of reserve (condenser) tank. The vent hole in the top is essential to this function, so trapped air can escape as water enters. When engine cools down, water contracts in radiator and cylinder water jackets, forming a partial vacuum, which then draws water back to the radiator from the reserve tank. The seal of the radiator cap must be airtight, and also the overflow  tube joint at the radiator for this to work properly. You will also discover water leaking from around the cap and spraying on the hood when running at high RPM if the cap gasket is leaking. The cooling water pump provides a bit of pressure on the water entering the radiator.  I expect your startup with new tank will be good.
Here is how it looks now in stainless steel , painted black

I want to start testing it this weekend, I have put simple tap water in it, full radiator.
So I need to know it this is going to work with a closed system tank

what do you think?
Hi Pete,
thanks for the clear pics. I have been busy with the tank in the meantime.
On my car there the overflow pipe is coming in on the frontend with a minor slope
So you do have a small overflow hole in the top end of your tank?
I am confused why on the original tank there was this small hole in the back.
on the new stainless steel one we have decided to close that hole.
since I thought it has to be a closed system but I am unsure whether the cooled down water will go up in the radiator? how does that work exactly.
anyone who can explain this to me is more than welcome.
thanks and regards, Martijn
HI, Here are some pics of my Water tank, hope this helps, on one pic you can see the overflow pipe coming from the top
Definitely no hole on the rear end, just the 1/4" overflow from the top, the filler plug nut and the 1/2" pipe into the very bottom front from the radiator, Regards Pete.
thanks Peter,
so you do not have the small Hole on the top?
Would you mind sending me some pics of all sides of your tank?
I think that will explain me the best what to look for.
very curious ....
Hi.Mine is a 28, the Tank is made of brass it looks the same but does not have the hole
However it does have an over flow pipe from the top of the side facing the prop shaft
It should not be sealed! as the water heats in the radiator it expands into the tank, as the
water in the rad cools it pulls the water back into the system, the rad cap must have good
a seal and be tight,
hope you can see the small hall on the right corner (top of the tank)
can anyone confirm this is wrong and not original?
thanks
another view
Hi guys,
I have a rather burning question. We had to rebuilt my condenser tank because the underside had rusted out. I have let it built from stainless steel this time, to do it good forever.
In my original tank there was a small hall drilled? is that original?
the steelmanufacturer though so , so he also drilled it in the new condenser tank.
When the radiator reaches boiling point, and I stop the car the fluid is coming out from there. I have used a mixture of plain tapwater and antifreeze (about 50 /50)
Can anyone share there experience with the best fluid for these old Lincolns?
there is just not so much knowledge of these old legends in the NNethelands. at least not easy available.
so my main question: does the whole cooling system incl. the condenser tank have to be a fully closed system. See pics of my original and new condenser tank. Any knowledge or tip is welcome. thanks
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